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Annette Nielsen, The Saratogian, August 28, 2002

When I agreed to show a group of women that they would be able to make an entire dinner from what was grown and produced in Washington County -- an area rich in agriculture -- I hadn't yet tested my theory.

Luckily for me, I get to speak with many people, not only those who like to cook and eat great food, but the people who produce it, as well.

The element of the tour I was most excited about -- visiting the places that actually produced this wonderful bounty and seeing how the gardens are tended and how the animals lived -- was also an area where I found my knowledge lacking.

The women were the winning bidders of a silent auction item I had donated at a fund-raiser.

Eager to please this group of foodies, I assembled a tour based on recommendations passed along from area producers and chefs, as well as from Paula Schafer at Cornell Cooperative Extension.

The menu inspiration came from our exceedingly warm weather that reminded me of a couple of summer holidays in Tuscany.

Although the day itself (Saturday) was rainy and the temperature dipped to the
mid-50s, the great fun of foraging for food among bucolic settings kept our high spirits and menu intact.

Our stops included:

3-Corner Field Farm

We traveled to Shushan first to visit the sheep dairy at 3-Corner Field Farm, a beautiful setting for the approximately 140 sheep that are naturally raised and grass fed (no hormones and antibiotic-free).

Karen Weinberg described the relatively young operation as her husband, Paul Borghard, continued with the milking process.

The sheep dairy is one of just 100 such operations in the United States. The couple ships approximately 3,500 pounds of milk (frozen) every 10 days to places like Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in Columbia County, a nationally acclaimed cheese producer.

The milk from the sheep goes through incredibly strict inspections, and it is easy to see that Weinberg and Borghard adhere to the many regulations.

As we entered the milking parlor, we scrubbed the bottoms of our shoes with a hot sudsy solution. The white walls in the milking parlor sparkled.

The sheep are moved daily to different green pastures, where lambs are raised for meat, too.

Before we left, Weinberg treated us to a morning repast of baguettes, sliced pears and a delicious array of Old Chatham Sheepherding Company cheeses.

3-Corner Field Farm, Karen Weinberg and Paul Borghard, 1311 County Route 64, Shushan, NY 12873, 854-9695, karenandpaul@dairysheepfarm.com

Flying Pigs Farm

Just down the road and over a bridge that crosses the Battenkill River, you'll find Jennifer Small and Michael Yezzi of Flying Pigs Farm.

Jennifer tells us that the pigs they raise, ''Large Blacks,'' are an old-fashioned and very rare breed, offering meat that is moist, more flavorful and better textured than the pork of modern breeds.

She pointed out that although it may seem strange to use a rare breed for food, the breed could face extinction.

The Yezzis, who market their product locally and at the Greenmarkets (New York City), have found a demand for their naturally raised pigs. They sold out last year before the end of the market season.

These pigs have a great life, as do the sheep on 3-Corner Field Farm. With plenty of room to roam in the great outdoors, but within safe enclosures throughout the fields and forests, the pigs eat whole grains grown and ground fresh in Washington County.

The Yezzis sent us on our way with some sun-dried tomato and chardonnay sausages, and each of us received eggs produced on their farm.

Flying Pig Farm products include hormone-free and antibiotic-free center-cut pork chops, smoked chops, bacon, tenderloin, spareribs, fresh and smoked ham, sun-dried tomato and chardonnay sausage, all from the Heritage pigs. Fresh eggs and poultry are also available.

Flying Pigs Farm, Jennifer Small and Michael Yezzi, Shushan, NY 12873, 854-3844, bestpork@sover.net

Salem Farmers' Market

Having spent the last two decades in New York City and Washington, D.C., I grew accustomed to shopping at farmers' markets.

My meals were based on what was in season, what looked good, and consequently tasted better.

Here, at my new home in Salem, I have a wonderful resource in the Salem Farmers' Market, started by my friend and neighbor Bob Andersen. He also started the farmers' markets in Whitehall and Granville

Area producers offer a variety of great fruits, vegetables, flowers, herbs, yarn, maple products and goat cheese -- all on Main Street.

Shopping here through October, you'll enjoy some of the best of the area's offerings.

Our group left with my favorite mix of salad greens and vibrant (in color and taste) cherry tomatoes.

Bob Andersen, market manager, Main Street (Route 22) Village Green Salem, NY 12865; open Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. through October.

Steininger’s

Not far from the Salem Farmers' Market and also on Main Street in Salem is Steininger's Restaurant. The restaurant is known for its great homemade soups and desserts. The chefs also make a selection of chocolates from an old family recipe.

Here, we opted for some almond bark in dark and milk chocolate, as well as bars of dark, semi-sweet chocolate for an after-dinner treat.

Steininger's, Main Street, Salem, NY 12865, 854-3830, www.steiningers.com.

Sheldon Farms

I know the daily trips to my favorite area farm stand will soon be over (it closes after Labor Day until next summer).

I will forever appreciate the greatest corn (my husband and I think it's the best we've tasted), fresh fruits and vegetables, lovely baked goods and baguettes, as well as an incredible selection of gourmet foods offered at the stand on Route 22, just south of Salem.

Many days, I've asked for more of the beautiful light lavender and white eggplant picked fresh from Patricia and Albert Sheldon's garden behind the farm stand to make eggplant marinade or eggplant parmigiana.

Other days, I'd request hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. Although they're not grown on the Sheldon's farm, they were happy to special order for me from a local supplier.

Upon our arrival, Patricia Sheldon offered up a mini-feast of gourmet spreads and dips to compliment the great baguettes and breadsticks sold there. We almost didn't need lunch.

On what has been a family farm for generations, Albert Sheldon continues the tradition of growing a number of varieties of potatoes. During the summer at the farm stand, you'll find some of the best corn in the area, in addition to fruits and vegetables, mushrooms, herbs, gourmet food and great bread and baked goods.

Sheldon Farms, Albert and Patricia Sheldon, Route 22, Salem, NY 12865, 854-7847.

Gardenworks

After our midday break, our itinerary included a stop at Gardenworks, a haven housed in what was once a family poultry farm, just outside Salem.

Under Meg Southerland's direction, the Gardenworks farm now produces U-pick blueberries and raspberries, in addition to growing flowers used in floral arrangements. (You can visit the special area in the upper level of the barn where rows of flowers are hung and dried).

The fall harvest produces pumpkins and specialty winter squashes, and winter offers fresh evergreens, wreaths and Christmas trees in the most festive of atmospheres.

Inside the store, you'll also be pleased at the various offerings of handcrafted gifts, specialty foods, and an area where stained-glass and soap-making workshops are held.

Our goal at Gardenworks was to pick the sweet, ripe raspberries now in season for our dessert. However, with the light morning rain, Southerland thoughtfully picked the berries in advance, saving us from the downpour that enveloped most of the afternoon.

Gardenworks, Meg Southerland, 1055 Route 30, West Hebron Road, Salem, NY 12865, 854-3250, www.gardenworksfarm.com.

Feast time

Arriving back at our house (our male counterparts were still out on a fly-fishing expedition), we started making dinner from our daylong shopping spree.

Many hands made light work of the recipes I provided, all to a backdrop of the first summer fire in the fireplace, great conversation and wonderful aromas throughout.

The meal we ate (with the exception of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and extra-virgin olive oil) all came from Washington County, with ingredients that were fresher (providing a higher nutritional value), required less packaging (less waste), and ultimately supported the family farms in an industry that preserves open spaces and supports diverse ecosystems.

The best part of the day was enjoying the incredible bounty and amazing flavors from our area's producers.

Tuscany a la Washington County

From our farm tour, we made crostini of marinated eggplant, herbed and grilled lamb on miniature chives, crepes white pizza with sage, porcinis and Talleggio cheese, two-tone tomato soup, eggplant parmigiana, a variety of Italian sausages, garden salad with raspberry vinaigrette, raspberries with Crema Zabaglione and Steininger's chocolates.

Loaves of peasant bread baked by a friend, Bill Krieg of Salem, were sent home with the Washington County Bounty Tour participants.

Loretta Albrecht, a part-time resident of West Hebron and a participant on the tour, supplied heirloom pear tomatoes from her garden. The herbs came from my garden.

Recipes can be requested from Annette Nielsen by e-mail at homecook@sover.net.

The Culinary Bounty Tour of Cornell Cooperative Extension has launched many initiatives, including one that connects local farmers and farm products with area chefs.

It also offers many resources, including a list of area farmers' markets in Washington and Saratoga counties.

To contact Paula Schafer of the Agricultural Economic Development Program, write to Cornell Cooperative Extension of Washington County, Hudson Falls, NY 12839, or call 746-2560.

Cornell Cooperative Extension of Saratoga County is in Ballston Spa. Call 885-8995, or visit www.aedpws.org.

Other farms

M & A Farm: Antibiotic-free and hormone-free natural beef, pork, pasture poultry and eggs. Although we didn't visit this farm on tour, we got out sweet Italian sausages for our meal here.

M&A Farm also has a stand at the Saratoga Springs Farmers' Market.

Call Marilyn and Arnold Grant, 638-8300, or write mgrant83@capital.net.

New Minglewood Farm: Vegetable farm focusing on heirloom varieties, with a wonderful selection of heirloom tomatoes.

Also available at the Saratoga Springs Farmers' Market.

Chris Lincoln and Tammara Van Ryn, 99 County Route 52, Greenwich, NY 12866, 692-8579, vanlinc@juno.com.

Annette Nielsen, of Salem, is a former caterer in New York City and cooking instructor in Washington, D.C. Her food column is published Wednesdays in The Saratogian

©The Saratogian 2003